JDF Posted February 4, 2008 Report Posted February 4, 2008 (edited) Galaxy MKI Rear Brake Pad Replacement. Tools needed:Jack.Wheel Brace.Calliper Wind-back tool.Brake hose clamp.Clear plastic hose. Edited February 4, 2008 by JDF Quote
RADIOTWO Posted February 4, 2008 Report Posted February 4, 2008 Galaxy MKI Rear Brake Pad Replacement. Tools needed:Jack.Wheel Brace.Calliper Wind-back tool.Brake hose clamp.Clear plastic hose. Quote
?Bleeno? Posted February 4, 2008 Report Posted February 4, 2008 8. Open bleed nipple and attach length of clear tubing. Don't open bleed nipple just wind back piston with tool Radiotwo There are a few people that will tell you on here that not opening the bleed nipple to wind back the piston will render the ABS U/S as any "crud" will end up travelling through the control unit. Quote
searcher Posted February 4, 2008 Report Posted February 4, 2008 WHAT NO AXLE STAND Oh dear oh dear oh dear Wait till health and safety hear about this :20: Quote
gregers Posted February 4, 2008 Report Posted February 4, 2008 or yellow jersey and hardhat and safety barrier,tut tut tut. Quote
Beyond Help? Posted February 5, 2008 Report Posted February 5, 2008 I think that for the cost of a half litre of brake fluid it is daft not to open the bleed nipples. Quote
murphy Posted February 5, 2008 Report Posted February 5, 2008 Galaxy MKI Rear Brake Pad Replacement. Tools needed:Jack.Wheel Brace.Calliper Wind-back tool.Brake hose clamp.Clear plastic hose. Quote
JDF Posted February 6, 2008 Author Report Posted February 6, 2008 (edited) 8. Open bleed nipple and attach length of clear tubing. Don't open bleed nipple just wind back piston with tool Radiotwo There are a few people that will tell you on here that not opening the bleed nipple to wind back the piston will render the ABS U/S as any "crud" will end up travelling through the control unit. All,Just to try and clear up this debate :- What is the correct method for winding back the rear calliper or pushing back the front - Should the bleed nipples be open or closed???????? ?adrianf? & gregers,Regarding additional vehicle support - I do always use axel stands, just forgot to write it in...... (I don't seem to be able to edit the original post anymore!!!) murphy,Regarding anti seize agents, why can't you use a small bit on wheel studs/nuts? I have seen many mechanics use it in the past!!! I always re-check the tightness of wheel nuts a couple of hundred miles after a wheel has been removed either by myself or a garage / tyre fitters Edited February 6, 2008 by JDF Quote
familyman Posted February 6, 2008 Report Posted February 6, 2008 or yellow jersey and hardhat and safety barrier,tut tut tut.What about a risk assesment and a method statement? my god i'm suprised you're still alive!! Quote
NikpV Posted February 6, 2008 Report Posted February 6, 2008 8. Open bleed nipple and attach length of clear tubing. Don't open bleed nipple just wind back piston with tool Radiotwo There are a few people that will tell you on here that not opening the bleed nipple to wind back the piston will render the ABS U/S as any "crud" will end up travelling through the control unit. may be true but ford procedure on tis says nothing about opening bleed nipple Quote
LongGone Posted February 6, 2008 Report Posted February 6, 2008 JDF: And the same mechanics who do coat wheel studs with an anti seize agent were probably ordering a new wheel centre, wheel nuts and studs two minutes after the vehicle left. If anyone has seen or read of a publication advising this practice I would be very interested in seeing it Quote
LongGone Posted February 6, 2008 Report Posted February 6, 2008 NikpV: Is Tis the official Ford product? If so they probably assume that a qualified employee wouldcarry out this "best practice" as a matter of course without having to have it laid out in black and white..An additional advantage in bleeding whilst winding back the brake pads is that if the pads are well worn and the reservoir has been kept topped up to its maximum level there is no spillage of brake fluid. Quote
JDF Posted February 7, 2008 Author Report Posted February 7, 2008 If anyone has seen or read of a publication advising this practice I would be very interested in seeing it I admit there are a lot of things written about not using Anti-Seize on wheel nuts on the web, but on the other habnd, also a lot about using it.Here's just a couple:- http://www.rossbrownsales.com.au/files/ant...tes__sprays.pdfWEICON Anti-Seize in the automotive industryWEICON Anti-Seize is used by renowned carmanufacturers and is recommended for repair andmaintenance. AutomobilesBattery poles and connections, springs, suspensions,exhaust fittings and seals, bogies, screwed connectionsin chassis and body, brake cams and pins, wheel boltsand nuts, driving wheels and chains, hose connections,engine suspensions, injection nozzles, cylinder-headscrews. http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/loctite_...brochure_uk.pdfLoctite Quote
?Bleeno? Posted February 7, 2008 Report Posted February 7, 2008 There are a few people that will tell you on here that not opening the bleed nipple to wind back the piston will render the ABS U/S as any "crud" will end up travelling through the control unit.may be true but ford procedure on tis says nothing about opening bleed nipple I think this is a VW procedure Nik as I spoke to my sister-in-laws husband who works for Inchscape in Telford and that's the procedure they are taught there. Quote
LongGone Posted February 7, 2008 Report Posted February 7, 2008 If anyone has seen or read of a publication advising this practice I would be very interested in seeing it I admit there are a lot of things written about not using Anti-Seize on wheel nuts on the web, but on the other habnd, also a lot about using it.Here's just a couple:- JDF: Looks a very impressive product. Perhaps I should have been more specific and said any wheel\tyre\vehicle manufacturer. You probably know but as a matter of interest all commercial\contractors plant vehicles over a couple of tons GVW have left hand threaded nuts on the near side wheels because they have an inherant ability to come undone with predictable results. I've also witnessed anti-seize put on the w\studs of a car in a garage and torqued up with the usual air wrench (and as usual probably set at max.) It stripped two studs before the fitter cottoned on. The actual torque setting on wheel studs is always, to my knowledge, stated to be with "Dry" studs. Anti seize would probably increase the manufacturers settings by a factor of? If it doesn't strip the thread there and then the over torque can cause the stud to shear off at a later date. Have to admit that I use anti on everything else though and in many times thanked my lucky stars that I had. Quote
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